The aircraft itself came in a very large box, and when I opened it as I expected it was well pack and protected, the tail section as you would expect was all packed nicely in bubble wrap along with the wing and the fus which was wrapped very much the same. All the parts and accessories were neatly placed in a bag so as not to loose anything (like I do) so as far as delivery of this fine specimen I was happy.
I donít know if itís just me but I always like to read through the instruction first before I start a build so as to get and understanding of a build? And then I begin. I started with the stabilizer first, this seemed pretty straight forward the usual removal of film so as to glue the tail section on, the only tricky bit was to use the template provided to site the spar through the tail, once done all was happy.
The next step was to set the push rods through the fus which because of their size seemed tricky but with a bit of time and patients it was oakís once the tail section was done, the pushrods were in and all glued parts were dry I started on the wings To be Honest there was not a lot of work to do just the usual for an ARTF gluing the ailerons in place as well as the flaps and fitting the servos into the wing. So letís go through the checklist, fus done, stabilizer done, ailerons done, flaps done and servos in the wing done excellent.
Next I started to fit the electrics into the fus this was also straight forward as there are holes notched out for the servos, I positioned the receiver accordingly and connected all the switches.
The biggest step for me was the engine, now this took a bit of work as I had to do some research as I have never fitted a petrol engine before. It states in the manual a 120f/s or an equivalent so I opted for the DLE 20 the reason for this was weight, when I was doing my research I found that some people have to put a lot of lead in the nose because of the light weight engine and the long fus, so this is why I went for the DLE and (I have to say it sounds great).
In the manual it says that for the retracts you should use a set of YTíS retracts but at a whopping £200 I am sure you can get a cheaper set, just like I did, I bought a set from a friend a while ago new, they are not the correct type legs but they will do for now till flying season starts.
The retracts were air up spring down system and they fitted in the wing like a dream, and I also managed to fit the air tank and manifold in the wing as well to elevate the problem of connection when fitting the wing to fly. But with the grumble aside the plane looks fantastic and I canít wait for the spring to give it a test.
The spinner was made from an Ervine 4Ē with an alloy back plate; I first marked a cut line about 2.5 inches up from the point of the spinner. Then from the cut line I marked a further 5mm back for the holes to place the gauge wire into, once the holes were marked all the way round the spinner I heated up a small piece of wire and pushed the wire through the dots previously marked.
Once I had holes all the way round the spinner (about eight) I started to feed the wire through one side of the spinner and out the other side, I repeated this process till all the holes were filled with wire and I had a cross like pattern inside.
The next step was to fill the spinner cone up with resin about 5mm past the wires so as to submerge the wires, the best way I found to keep it stable and level whilst applying the resin was to stand it cone down in a greased up egg cup, once I checked the spinner for level I scuffed up the inside of the spinner so it would be easier for the resin to knit to, then I proceeded to fill the cone with the resin.(left to set)
I was well pleased with the out come it was on the money and balance was great. Next I began to cut off the cone using a simple dremmel with a cutting blade this took about 5 minutes, after that it was just a case of shaping the inside with the dremmel using a sanding bit, cutting off the excess wire and grinding them smooth.
The only down side is that the spinner is still a bit long for my liking, because of the thickness of the prop, plus the prop nut, and the hassle of them touching the wiring, plus being a bit concerned with integrity of the spinner I had to make it this way. The question is do you spend a good 40-50 quid on buying an alloy spinner and cutting the prop gaps out yourself or save half that and try building something similar??? The cannon was made from an electric motor spinner collet painted up in black and epoxied in place then the spinner was just filled and painted.
So to sum up this aircraft, if you are in to scale warbirds this is a great buy, easy to put together but a bit pricey on parts but it looks fantastic.