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Thread: Scratch building a MAN Staudacher 300GS

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  1.  
    #26
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Just relized I forgot the Servo lead tube. Oh well i'll have to improvise on that one.1&2-doing some bench flying trying to get a preview of things to come. 3&4 I sanded the rear of the wing flush to the ribs and I elected to cap off the trailing edge with a pre-shaped balsa piece, 3/16x1/2x 36 trailing edge stock.5-Sanded following the rib out line and brought the trailing edge to a 1/16 thick edge.6- Time to joine the wings together,done upside down on the bench.
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  2.  
    #27
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    ok, once the wings are glued its time to install the diehedral brace.1-measuring the area's of the ribs that must have surgury.2-3-4-5 all showing the surgury.
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  3.  
    #28
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Ok Pics 1-3 shows, after ribs 1,2,and 3 were opend up to accept the brace I applied 30 min epoxy and slid it into position.4- shows the wing in its saddle,just test fitting.5-shows how much of the sub leading edge has to be trimmed away to accept the wing.6- shows the 1/16 shear webbing installed the length of the wing.
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  4.  
    #29
    for the tube could you get a peice of copper pipe the same size as the tube, sharpen the end a bit and slowly work it through the ribs?
     

  5.  
    #30
    Join Date
    05-19-2008
    Location
    North Canton, Ohio
    Posts
    2
    This is a great build, thanks to Joe for sharing it with us on this web site!

    I was wondering if there was any particular care regarding the selection of balsa for a project like this, or if you were using typical 8# balsa for the project?
     

  6.  
    #31
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Jwaj2002 I had allready made a tool to cut a hole into the ribs when I scratch built my super Kaos.But I do appreciate the input!

    Jimamos to your question, yes I allways try to select my wood with lightness and strength in mind. Lighter wood for the tail and stronger wood for structural areas like forward of the C.G.

    #1- shows my tool I made, its a K&s Brass tube about 1/2 dia. I have another tube of next smaller size in the end of it then I have a wooden basswood stick after that to make the length I need.the cutting end was made slicing grooves with a dremel.
    #2&3- I'm cutting the holes into the ribs. since i forgot to do this befor the wing was glued together i'm starting from the tip.
    #4- shoes how long the tool is.
    #5-I use ordinary printing paper, you can use what ever you are comfortable using.
    #6-i start rolling it with a pencil to get a tight roll.
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  7.  
    #32
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    some more pics! make the roll min of 1/2 diameter to have any luck passing the servo lead through the wing.
    #1-the pencil allows for a tight roll of the paper.
    #2-I worked the paper into the wing ribs.
    #3- I use Gap filling ca to attache the tube to the ribs.
    till next post TTFN
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  8.  
    #33
    thats exactly was I was thinking of lol
     

  9.  
    #34
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    More progress!Pics 1&2-install the 1/4x 1/4 sticks at the front of ribs 1,2,2a. Sand them nice and flush in the front.For the bottom stick you'll have to secure with clamps as it dries in place.
    Pics 3,4,and 5-I made a paper template,trial fitting it to the wing so its nice and snug and sanding won't be so bad later. I then made traced it on 1/8 A/C plywood and cut it out and sanded it snuggly into place.
    Pic 6-I then glued it in place with 30 min epoxy.Dont be to generous with the epoxy as to much makes drips and doesnt add stregth, it just adds weight.Apply just enough to get the wood wet were it makes contact with the piece your glueing
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  10.  
    #35
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    A few more pics!#1-In order to align the wing into the saddle for the wing dowels I wanted to put the top sheeting on the wing. I started with the right top leading edge sheeting.
    #2- Shows the installation of the right center sheeting.
    #3- I like to make the sheeting fit snug like a puzzle piece with no gaps but not too tight as it bulges off the ribs. It must lay down nice and smooth on its own.
    #4 Then lightly sand to a smooth finish.
    #5- I then sheeted the outer 2 sections of the wing and sand smooth!
    #6-Right top sheeting complete!
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  11.  
    #36
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Continuing on!
    #1-I completed the sheeting the same way on the left top of the wing.
    #2-I then laid the wing into the saddle to check the fit!
    #3-right side of saddle.
    #4-Left side of saddle.
    Both check good.
    #5-This is the reason for leaving the engine mount box out. I wanted access to F-2 for the wing hold down dowels.
    #6-I was able to mark with a pencil the location for drillong the wing dowel holes.
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  12.  
    #37
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Continuing on!
    #1-Using my circle template from the art store I located the hole from my mark I made before.
    #2-The wing is now ready to get drilled.
    #3-I used a 1/4 in fostner bit in a hand drill.
    #4-One hole drilled,second one almost. Go slow with the drill.
    #5-once the holes were drilled I used small pieces of 1/4 in dowel to just align and hold thew wing in place.
    next up the rear wing hold down plate and squaring up the wing to the fuse!
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  13.  
    #38
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Ok now I'm going to prepare the fusalage for the wing mounting.
    #1,#2 and #3- I used card stock to make a pattern of the wing hold down block.
    #4-Shows the wing hold down block in the plans and they are asking for a piece that is 1/2'' thick plywood.Thats awfully thick for a plane this size so I'm going to make it from 1/4''thick aircraft ply.Then I can just secure it with triangle stock. I also use 1/4x20 Blind nuts. its so much easier than tapping wood and applying ca a few times.
    #6- shows i'm measuring the depth of the wood to 1/2 in down from the bottom of F-3.
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  14.  
    #39
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Pic's #1 and #2 show where the block will sit with plenty of room for triangle stock.
    #3- With the 1/4 '' fostner bit still in the drill I aligned the bit level with the surface of the bottom of the wing and I drilled through the sheeting and balsa fill I had installed previously.
    #4- I used 30 min epoxy again to glue the hold down block in the fusalage. reminder don't use too much epoxy on the top half.keep it light for the triangle stock to come later. you can put alittle more under the block!
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  15.  
    #40
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    More pics, #1- i placed the wing in the saddle and secured it with clamps to keep it from shifting.
    #2- I used a string tha was pinned to the middle of the fusalage rear point and measured the wing tips to see if they were of equal lengths. They were on the money!
    #3- I then drilled through the wing at an angle,level to the wing surface .
    #4&5- I then cleaned out the hole in the wing hold down block and re-drilled it to accept the 1/4x20 blind nuts.
    #6- i then installed the blind nuts using a c-clamp. (note since the dilled hole is at an angle the 1/4 x20 blind nut must sit at an angle too so (noot shown) is a piece of light ply under the wing hold down plate that was sanded to an angle and glued to the hold down plate.
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    Last edited by JoeMacD; 08-30-2010 at 10:59 PM.
     

  16.  
    #41
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    more pics.#1- The blind nuts installed.
    #2- the wing mounted to the fusalage with Nylon 1/4x20 bolts.
    #3-A bench test flight!
    #4-checking my 6 for straightness and levelness!looks good from here!
    #5- chjecking the 12:00 position.looks good from here!
    #6-The wing hold down dowels.
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  17.  
    #42
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    More pics.#1-drill through the shear webbing and drill a 1/4 '' hole into the Diehedral brace!Be carefule to get this nice and srtaight.
    #2-what the dowel installation looks like when its done!
    #3&4- I finish installing the bottom wing sheeting!
    #5&6-I then install the 1/4 in rib capping and mark out the cut line for the ailerons.
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  18.  
    #43
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    more pics,#1&2- I cut and installe the 3/8 thick leading edge blocks. glued with Elmers carpenter wood glue. Thats all for tonight! they will dry over night! good night!
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  19.  
    #44
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    More pics
    Pic 1-leading edge block is shaved down to airfoil.
    pic 2&3-leading edge is then rounded.
    pic 4-the Left aileron is cut out
    Pic 5- the aileron and wig are sanded fluch to the 1/4x 1/4 square's
    Pic 6-shows both ailerons cut out and sanded.
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  20.  
    #45
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    more pics.
    Pics 1& 2-shows the balsa fill placed were the hinge pins will go in.
    Pics 3- shows the 1/4 in sheet cap strip for the ailerons. make 4 .2 for ailerons and 2 for wing.
    Pic 4&5 shows the ailerons with capping.
    Pic 6- shows the wing with balsa fill.
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  21.  
    #46
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    More pics.
    Pic 1-shows the wing for capping.
    pics 2&3&4- 1/4 in sheet cap.
    Pic 5&6- capped and measured for the pin hinges.
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  22.  
    #47
    Join Date
    07-13-2002
    Location
    New Milford, CT
    Posts
    1,223
    JoeMacD great Job! I just stumbled on your build! I wish you the best of Luck!~ I still have the original model from George Leu's article! It still flies great!
    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  23.  
    #48
    Join Date
    10-07-2010
    Location
    Madrid Spain
    Posts
    2
    Hi JoeMacD , an awesome and clean job, i also like the S300-GS, but me i did the Carl Goldberg, please could you tell me what´s the wingspang, longer, and weight, the CG S300GS is 60´ x 52´ and about 8.2 pounds ( too heavy), i´m thinking to build up one like yours, i think the canopy and cowl fits the Goldberg, don´t?
    Thanks Paco
     

  24.  
    #49
    Join Date
    12-16-2006
    Location
    long Island,NewYork
    Posts
    171
    Hello Paco,
    sorry its taken me so long to reply as i've been very busy and been ill. the wing span is 63 inches, and weight is expected to be around 7-8 lbs depending on wood choice and covering.i'm planning on powering it with the new OS .75 ax.That should power it up nicely! as far as the canopy i'm going to Vacuform my own once i make the master mold.I will post those pics too once i'm back on it!.
     

  25.  
    #50
    Join Date
    10-07-2010
    Location
    Madrid Spain
    Posts
    2
    Hi Joe
    Please do it, fiberglass i think i know enough, but about canopys i´m sure i´mgoing to learn
     

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