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Thread: Builders Guide Model Y Gee Bee (Electric)

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  1. Wing Clean Up 
    #51
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    Starting to finish up the wing.

    Put in the aileron mounts and added the triangle braces to the wingtips

    Planked the upper wing area and started sanding

    Need to do the lower wing planking, but will put in some support strips on the sides of the landing gear blocks to support the planking
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  2. Bottom Center Wing Planking 
    #52
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    Before planking the underside I desided to add small 1/16 square strips along the edges of the landing gear blocks that are recessed to the edges of the ribs. These are to give the planking something to glue to next to the blocks and along the leading and trailing edge out past the doublers. These are not on the drawings right now but I may add them latter tonight.

    The planking that is part of the short kit is not notched for the landing gear blocks and needs to be fitted prior to glueing. Bob asked me why I did not do it and I could not think a good answer exept I was reaching burnout on changes.

    I cannot say enough that I am not a professional at this. I only do it as a hobby. John is providing a short kit and I am trying to make sure he has a good product but realize I am no pro at this.

    As a short kit, it leaves a lot up to the modeler to workout the details.
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  3. Finishing up the wing. 
    #53
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    The wing is just about all glued up, needing only the ailerons and the rear center section added that carries the wing out far enough to do the Filets.

    I will tell you now that the original design was not to have filets and that I went back and modified the design till I fitted one. It was my first effort and it is not shown on the plans as I could not figure out a way to do it with my limited drawing abilities.

    As we go thru this second build I will try to duplicate my work and add it to the plans at a later date.


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  4. Back to the Fuselage 
    #54
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    As I glued on the vertical and horizontal stabs to prepared for the stringers I realized I had not completed the pushrods for the elevator and Rudder.

    You must have the push rods in before your stringers go on as you will not be able to reach them.

    Ill try to get mine finished up in the morning and put in the first stringers.

    Bob cut his stringers from bass wood for strength and I am doing it with balsa again trying to lighten mine.

    Now that I think about it I may grind out some of the light ply to see if I can knock off a few more ounces.
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  5.  
    #55
    how heavy is it right now?
     

  6.  
    #56
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    The original prototype flew at 55 ounces with two 3s1p 2000 ma 10C batteries wired up in parallel

    It flew like a warbird being fast with out a bad snap in the turns. Definitly not a slow speed bird though.

    As I am going to the 20 C batteries I may be able to get by with only one.

    Thinking that any weight reduction would be a good thing.

    One place in the wing is the spar, talking with John and Bob they are recommending going back to the hard balsa vice the spruce.
     

  7. Stringers 
    #57
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    I started the stringers with the 1/8th square stringers that go from the firewall back to F-3

    These are flush with the frames and are the supports for the seams in the 1/16 inch planking later.

    There is also a 1/8th square stringer under the rear fuselage that runs from the rudder post forward.
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  8. More Stringers 
    #58
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    The stringer for the tail are 1/16 X 1/8

    I used hard balsa on the prototype and this one too, Bob is using bass for the strength.

    The stringers end at the tail in a piece of 1/8 square stock to butt into. This is latter sanded down.

    I am trying a new way to mount the tail wheel. Slightly different from the prototype.
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  9. Tail end 
    #59
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    This is where I am deviating from the plans to try a different approach on the tailwheel mount.

    I had used a very light version from E Flite on the Prototype, and while it held up I thought I would try something a little more robust.

    This also shows the vertical balsa on both sides of the tail for the stringers to run into.
    Attached Images
     

  10. Retired 
    #60
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    After receiving the publication acceptance from M.A.N. I decided to retire the prototype.

    It now hangs on the ceiling in the basement den (My Playroom) with other models I have hung up for the grandkids to look at.

    If you read this and decide to build one please realize I am not a pro at this by any means.
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  11.  
    #61
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Just a short note on quality verses inexpensive Motors and Speed Controls

    So far in the three years I have been flying electrics I have only tried three manufactures motors-

    My first experience was with the MPI HIMAX. I purchased two HC2208 series outrunner motors. Both failed when the cases seperated in flight. The second motor only lasted three flights. MPI informed me that it was not covered under the warranty.

    I then switched to E-Flite based on my hobby shop owners recommendation.

    I have now purchased and used three 450 out runners (PT 19s), two 480 outrunners (Model D Gee Bee), and a .10 (Model Y Gee Bee). No failures to date with two bent shafts from pile ups. The bent shafts were in the 480 and the .10. They were both bent on impact (One going straight in when the battery fell out in flight and the model hit pavement, the other when I took off on a maden with the ailerons reversed) Both shafts were available at my local shop and took less than 30 minutes to change out.

    Yes the E Flites are a little on the Hi range in price but I have had no failures.

    Recently purchased a "Cheap China outrunner" at the local hobby shop. When I asked my dealer what he thought about them, he refused to comment. He had recieved a shipment of them and they cost 20 dollars being in the E Flite 450 range. Long story short we put it in a Sig Kadet 400 that my son is learning on. I had a 450 E Flite in it for over a year and wanted to see if the performance was the same. Total life was 5 flights ( No Prop Strikes) before the motor started squalling and it burned out on the last flight. Bearings went out causing the motor to over heat. (NO Cowl, Plenty of air over it)

    Bottom line you get what you pay for. If you are new to electric models, ask around before you buy something.

    My only experiance with speed controls has been E Flite and Berg. I like the Berg better and the only failure I have had with the Berg was repaired under warranty no questions asked.
     

  12. Planking 
    #62
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    The original prototype was not planked until the second stage in the area around the fillet.

    I am sort of re-inventing the wheel now on the second prototype.

    I have started with the lower nose area with the idea of coming up and back at the same time. The planking is 1/16 in balsa.
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  13. Great Story in Model Airplane News!!!!!! 
    #63
    - Fantastic!!!! - What a great story of the model and the original. Nice link back to the forum - We will be here to watch, learn and to assist as needed -

    Bravo Zulu!

    Jon

     

  14.  
    #64
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Hey

    Wife is on travel leaving me with two kids for the month. Not much modeling going on here but between Bob and I we have glued up the pieces and only found the three mistakes so far.

    Bob has recommended changes on the plan sheet to make them easier to read. and I am trying to get them to M.A.N.

    The changes have to go by paper copy though as M.A.N. only prints from paper. I added the CG which is just forward of the main spar and a note to not get the leading and trailing edges upside down.
     

  15.  
    #65
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    I've received two emails from people that makes me think somewhere in the world the issue is on the news stands.
     

  16. Thumbs up  
    #66
    My issue arrived yesterday - read through the build article - again - well done -
     

  17. Mounting the Wing 
    #67
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    In order to continue the planking on the fuselage it required me to mount the wing.

    I glued in a dowel in the leading edge of the wing. Was suppose to be 3/16inch but I found I had made the hole in F-3 too big. Had to go with a sanded down 1/4 inch one.

    The plates for the hold down screw are in the short kit. One set is tabbed to go into the fuselage sides while the other set glues to the top of them giving them added thickness for the tapping process.

    The wing was lined up and the holes marked for 10x32 nylon wing bolts.

    After the plates were tapped I ran thin CA in the threads and after drying I re-tapped them.
    Attached Images
     

  18. One thing more 
    #68
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    You will notice the blocks that I glued to the back of the wing trailing edge. They were added when I decided to put on the Fillets. (The model looked terrible without them)

    Looking back there is probably a better way to fill in the area but as I am not a pro at this I simply blocked it in.

    the wing is now mounted and the stringers are all done.

    Boy Scout Meeting tonight and Basketball tomorrow. Not much will get done in the shop.
    Attached Images
     

  19.  
    #69
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Well this has reached the point I have dreaded. The Article is out and MAN is selling the plans, and John has told me he has sold the first kit which altough I wish him luck on sales, I actually dread having people build it. As I say I am not a pro at this.

    If you end up with one and have suggested changes or need to ask questions please use this site and I will give all the help I can.

    I do look forward to people posting photos.
     

  20.  
    #70
    are you going to do more in the DIY for finishing this one?
     

  21.  
    #71
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Don't quiet understand your question.

    Is DIY for Do it yourself?
     

  22.  
    #72
    yep, or would instructions be more correct for this thread?


    I'd like to see what it looks like ready for the plastic coating to go on, but without that coating on there (forgot what its actually called)
     

  23.  
    #73
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Your asking if I am going to continue the thread to completion I believe and Yes.

    I am on a slow down right now as the wife has been on travel leaving me to be a single parent for a while.

    The next project is to plank the area around the nose and the area just above the wing.
     

  24. Motivational Shot 
    #74
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Every once in a while I have to look at it to remind me how good looking a GB is.
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  25.  
    #75
    yea, I've got plans for a nitro one but we quit building when after getting the fuse ready for planking a drill press fell over and crushed the back half of the fuse
     

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