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Thread: Builders Guide Model Y Gee Bee (Electric)

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  1. Builders Guide Model Y Gee Bee (Electric) 
    #1
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    My Model Y Gee Bee design effort previously covered in an earlier forum will be coming out in the April edition of M.A.N.. This is a first for me so don't mind my big head

    The original forum was a work in progress showing many twist and turns as I worked out the design so it is a little hard to follow.

    After the test flights I pulled all the changes together and finalised the plans along with changing just about every piece of the short kit that had been cut by Top Notch Products (TNP).

    I purchase a proof kit from TNP which should arrive in the mail today. Its purpose is to support this thread and to also replace the original which has been hung in the Den of greats (Ok I am afraid I will crash it so I am building a second one to fly)

    After talking with the Model Airplane News editor, Jerry Yarrish I decided to start this new forum showing the final methods used.

    I thougt I would group the assemblies to show the basics of any contruction so that a new builder would not get lost. I hate to say it but the article is too short to be of help and as I am not a professional at this the plans can be a little vague also.

    I would like to say from the get go that this is also a place for other builders to come and ask for clarification on my work. Any feed back on clarification of the plans or short kit will go onto the plans and back to the kit cutter.
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  2. The Plans 
    #2
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
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    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    I went back thru the plans and made a lot of changes based on the prototype along with changes that worked out well with earlier designs

    Most of these were in the wing area where I tried to move all the parts into the short kit to make it easer of a beginner who may not have access to a local hobby shop still carrying building materiels

    The plans are on two sheets, both on 3 x 5 foot paper.

    Model airplane news will sell them thru thier plan service.

    If you should go with the short kit from John Valentine at Top Notch you can ask that they be added to the short kit. If you have previously purchased them be sure to tell John not to include them.
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  3. Cowl Ring and Radial 
    #3
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    As I do not have the new kit to start I thought I would start with the cowl ring and radial.

    The model could be built with a Williams Bros Cyclone Radial as the model is 1/8th scale. But due to its high cost (Over 40.00) and my fear of crashing (Only three kinds of model airplanes, Those that are going to chrash, those that have crashed and those hung on the ceiling) As I have the engine I may make a mount for it and put it on the Prototype as It is retired.

    The radial on the prototype was purchased from Dare Enterprises (Dare Design-Po Box 521, Cumberland Maryland, 21501, www.darehobby.com) with the concept that the cylinders are glued to the front and back of of the ring support (RS-1). I realised very early the plastic engine itself would not hold the ring in place on a nose over.
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  4. Cowl Ring and Radial 
    #4
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    01-25-2007
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    Lester Alabama, USA
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    The ring support assemby is made up of RS-1, (4) RS-3 and RS-2

    The do not have to be assembled over the plans as any flat surface protected with wax paper will do.

    The RS-2 that is shown is changed slightly from the original to cut weight and add cooling holes into the fuselage for the battery.

    NOTE: pay sepecial attention to the orientation of RS-1 and RS-2 to ensure the number one cylinder is straight up when the assembly is finished.

    RS-1 has an arrow pointing up and the new RS-2 has a flat top line now.
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  5. Cowl Ring and Radial 
    #5
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    The plastic radial is cleaned up as a whole and the front section glued to the front of RS-1. The aft sections of the radial were cleaned up and glued individually to the back of RS-1.

    One thing I did not do when I finished this part was to take a dremel and clean up the excess plywood from around the cylinders. It would greatly improve the looks.

    The original plywood was drawn by simply laying the Dare Hobby radial on a scanner and importing it into AutoCAD to draw out the profile. I fudged a little to ensure there would be enough matereil should the radials have any variation

    Later you will find you have to remove most of the radial gearbox to allow cooling air but not to worry as the nose bowl covers it up.
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  6. Radial Mount 
    #6
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    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    The radial/cowl is attached to F-1 around the motor using 3 4-40 cap headed screws and washers. They are accessed thru the space between cylinders using a ball driver.

    Prior to gluing F-1 into the fuselage T nuts are epoxied into it to accept the motor mount and radial mount screws.

    NOTE: Do not fly the Model Y with the cowl off unless you make adustments for the Center of Gravity.
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  7. Cowl Ring 
    #7
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    The cowl ring is layed up layers of balsa and plywood using a pattern supplied in the short kit.

    If not using the short kit simply cut a pattern from scrap plywood.

    The pattern is assembled using a long 1/4-20 bolt which gives you the ability to knock the pattern out after the ring dries

    Prior to glueing up the first layer cover all the edges with clear tape to ensure the part does not stick.

    NOTE: DO NOT GLUE THE PATTERN TOGETHER AS IT IS EASER TO GET OUT IF YOU CAN KNOCK IT APART.

    The laminations started with two of 1/64 plywood to give the edges strength. I then used 1/32 balsa till I reaced a look I liked.

    The entire assembly is placed in a drill press or lathe to sand to shape.

    This of course could be done by hand also if a press or lathe are not available.
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    Last edited by PipesCS; 01-02-2009 at 08:25 AM.
     

  8. Decals 
    #8
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    The original prototype flew with decals provided by Callie's Graphics out of New Mexico. The cost was around 20.00. I know she had to increase her prices last year so am unsure of the cost.

    They would be worth twice th price. I had all the vinyl installed in a night.

    The originals were done off my drawings that I took from Mr. Hafke's qtr scale drawings and resized.


    One note on the original order I left out the eye on the bird and had to cut mine with a small piece of brass tube.

    I will try to send Callie a letter to fix it.
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  9. Decals 
    #9
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    Callies vinyl graphics come on a backing sheet that allows you to position, then remove the backing.

    This made it a breese to get the wing numbers perfect but you must start at one end and lay them slowly pressing out all the air bulbbles as you go.
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  10.  
    #10
    Nice to see the new thread - I'll be watching. Looking forward to getting one started.
     

  11. Hello 
    #11
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Glad to see you found the thread Shnokey

    You had mentioned jumping in and I will say John is cutting and has sent me two kits which I am going to do and the other is going to a model builder in Maryland to proof out.

    Anyone jumping in now may have to make corrections as we go because I have yet to get a design perfect the first time.

    I will be talking with John at the end of this proof build to go ahead and make it a full kit as it will really only need the balsa for the stringers and fuselage planking, along with some hardware.
     

  12. Landing Gear and Pants 
    #12
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    I was checking the back door until the time when the mail should have delivered the new kit, only to have the wife remind me it was New years day and there would be no mail.

    To make matters worse, She drug me to Walmart which was like rubbing salt in a wound.

    Decided to discuss the Landing gear as it was not changed.

    The gear is a carry over from the Model D which I did just prior to the Model Y.

    The gear is all 1/4 inch balsa built up around the main gear that is formed from 1/8 music wire.

    Some of the photos may show the Model D as like I say there was no change in the procedure only the scale.
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  13. Kit Arrived Today 
    #13
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    Kit arrived today but I did not get to spend about an hour on it. Wife took me to a sale to buy more clothes.

    I thought I would slip it in here before I go to far.

    John ships USPS priority mail so I would have had it thursday or in three days if the holiday had not gotten in the way. (Remember I live in Lester Alabama and there is no such thing as next day mail).

    Cost was 115.00 which was higher than I was expectiing but it was a large increase in parts since the original. I added over 150 parts to the list. It turns out it is more of a kit than the usual shortkit with over 350 parts including the wingspars. With the cowl jig and everything but the 1/16 inch planking and stringers in the box it is pretty close to complete.
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  14. Back to the Gear 
    #14
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    The leg fairing and wheel pants are built up as an assembly and then glued around the main landing gear wire.

    The assembly is started by gluing together MG-3A and MG-3B for each main gear.

    This assembly along with MG-1 and MG-2 are glued to MG-4.

    NOTE: Two of the MG-4 have alignment markings to assist in aligning MG-1 thru MG-3AB. Using these assures you end up with a left and right main gear.
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  15. Landing Gear and Pants 
    #15
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    This assembly is flipped over and MG-5 and MG-6 are added using 1/4 inch dowls as alignment pins. ( Do not Glue them in at this point !!!!!!)

    The dowls are removed and MG-7, the outer layer of the pant, is glued on to the stack.

    This completes the half of the gear that will be glued to the completed wire main landing gear. With this assembly glued to the MLG (I used Goo Glue to bond it to the wire) the unmarked MG-4 is glued on sealing the wire internal
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  16. Inboard Pant 
    #16
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    The inboard side of each wheel pant is removable for wheel changes/maintenance. They are aligned using the permenantly mounted dowls later.

    NOTE: It is important that you layout the parts in the right order to not end up with two of the same inboard pants. You need a left and right.

    To make up the removable inboard pant glue up MG-5, MG-6 and MG-7

    At this point the assembly can be taped together with the dowl installed to be sanded to final shape. I used double sided tape to hold the loose MG-4 inplace during the sanding.
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  17. Fitting Fairing to MLG 
    #17
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    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    Once the farings and pants are shaped. (Ones in the photos are from a set on the Model D but same concept) they are fitted to the MLG.

    They make a good guide to ensure all your wire is lined up prior to wrapping and soldering the joint.

    Once the farings are glued to the MLG wire they may be removed with the gear to be finish sanded and covered or painted.
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  18. Starting the Fuselage 
    #18
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    I am rushing thru this to some extent looking for fit problems and it is paying off. So far I have found one part that is on the sheet twice in the correct format and one old version.

    I also found a notch had not been reposistioned at the tail along with a mistake on F-6

    It was an easy fix to hand cut the clearance notch but will still go ahead and send the change to John.

    The fuselage is started by pinning one side down to a flat surface and mounting F-3, the battery compartment floor and F-5 to it while it is pinned flat.

    This initial step assures the model is straight so take your time fitting the parts dry prior to gluing.

    Once dry add the other side while the whole thing is still pinned flat to the board.
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  19. F-1 thru F-3 
    #19
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    Install Frames F-2 and F-1.

    F-1 requires that you glue seven T-nuts to the back side using epoxy prior to gluing to the side frames.

    F-1A and F-1B should be installed prior to putting the top and bottom of F-2 in place. (Ask me how I know) (This by the way were the parts that I had too many of on the sheet along with one wrong one that was the one I used)
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  20. Frame it up 
    #20
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    From this point on it is a simple matter to add each inside frame and build up the outer frame (Stringer Supports) as you go.

    I had to trim just a little on the tabs of F-10 to get a good tight joint without binding

    NOTE F-10 must be glued into place on the upper and lower fuselage before the tops and bottom of F-6 and F-7 are installed.
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  21. Frame 
    #21
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    When installing F-3T and F-6T it is important to keep them perpendicular as the will be the hatch line which is designed to be lifted off.

    I will show my two mistakes here

    On the fuselage sides I had forgotten to reposition the notches in the fuselage sides for the stabilizor mount. The notch in it will align with the tail later. On this one I just recut the notches as needed. Will get the changes to John tonight so anyone in the future should not see this.

    F-6 was missing its ears which left a spot open aft of F-9. I will fill mine with scrap but have already made the drawing change to the cut order.
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  22. Battery Compartment 
    #22
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    One of the biggest changes in the model from the prototype was to deepen the battery compartment floor.

    As the servos were originally attached to the floor, lowering them was not an option due to control runs binding.

    For that reason the servos were raised.

    With the new battery compartment You can now use the new 20 C size 2000 ma in parrallel.

    The original was tough to squeeze two 10C cells into.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by PipesCS; 01-03-2009 at 09:03 AM.
     

  23. Quick look at the Radial Mount 
    #23
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    With the redesign I changed the shape of of the mounting disk RS-2.

    This series shows the arrow drawn on RS-1 that is cylinder number 1 and should be straight up
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  24. Nose Bowl 
    #24
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
    Posts
    476
    The nose bowl on the phtototype was cut from 3/16 inch balsa and I have increased it to 1/4 inch to allow more materiel for rounding it over.

    I glued up the rings and simply rounded with a sanding block. Putting it on a mandril and spinning it would probably work better.
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  25.  
    #25
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    This is a good point on the fuselage to put in the push rods. I used .047 Dubro pushrods with the white nyloy sleeves. They need to be well supported to keep

    I usually mount the two servos and actually run the wire out the back.

    I have added the cutouts for exit points on the box sides but to be truthfull they are a best guess on the runs and will need to be proved out.

    After putting the wires in I felt a need to route out the cutouts a little more forward to lesson the angle to the control horns. I willl change the parts on the cut order.

    NOTE: Ensure you anchor the pushrod guide at every frame to keep out play in the rods.

    I also added a brace under the front edge of the servo tray to stiffin it up.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by PipesCS; 01-04-2009 at 10:27 AM.
     

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