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Thread: Teaming up with "Mr. Gee Bee," Henry Haffke

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  1.  
    #76
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    the second coat of resin goes on and it is thinned again with alcohol. The second coat is then saned again with 80 grit and again bare spot if any are treated.
    The third and last layer of resin is then brushed on (no thinning) and then wiped off with paper towels. This fills in the weave and gives the surface a glossy look but adds very little resin. Less than 1/2 ounce for the whole gear. Now when this coat is cured, it will be time for priming and sanding for the last time for the whole model. Hurray!
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  2.  
    #77
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    Little update while the snow and ice is flying around outside.
    The wheel pants and landing gear struts are now all primed and puttyed and sanded smooth. Will get it and the engine cowl painted in the next few days and then all the little stuff will be next
    GY
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  3.  
    #78
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    finally got the basement set up so I could start painting. I use a HVLP (high Volume Low Pressure) system from Nelson Hobby Supply. It uses a small air turbine to supply the pressiure through a 1 inch diameter hose to the air gun. The air pressurizes the paint to pump it up to the nozzle.
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  4.  
    #79
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    I use blue painters tape for most of my masking. I then use regular 3M tape to add the masking paper. I use old newspaper.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  5.  
    #80
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    The first two coats are done with Scale Stits Feaqther Coat which is both a primer and a chemical binder coat. It sticks to most surfaces and then when dry (about an hour) can be sanded smooth. I use a brillo pad or scotch Brite pad... It is a very heavily pigmented and covers easily.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  6.  
    #81
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    With the final two coats of Poly Tone Insignia White, the engine cowl panels and the top fuselage panels have a nice semi gloss sheen.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  7.  
    #82
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    Here's a shot showing the engine cowls and the landing gear all painted and ready to go.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  8.  
    #83
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    The final major job left is the cockpit detailing and the hinged hatch cover. here's the screws and material I used for the job. All the hardware is from Jerry Nelson of Nelson Hobby Supply.
    I started by adding material to the wood hatch cover structure and then sanding it to match the surounding fuselage lines. I added lite ply and plywood to the bottom rails so it would remain stiff and straight.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  9.  
    #84
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    For the interior I will detail the cockpit with an aluminum seat, a control column and an instrument panel. I tried something different this time, by using magnets strips to hold the seat and instrument panel when complete in place. This will make getting to the servos and radio switches much easier. The seat effectively hides the servos and the magnets and framework hold the seat well above the pushrods. I will also be making some seatbelts and shoulder harness straps to finish off the detailoing but not right now.
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  10.  
    #85
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    To attach the piano hinge, I first sanded all the filler and made sure the cover fit properly into place. I then taped it to prevent it from moving and began screwing the hinge into place. For it to work properly, it has to be installed straight without any binding.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  11.  
    #86
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    Once the hinge is in place, I fine tuned the hatch cover's fit by sanding the front and back surfaces until it fit nicely without rubbing accessively. The windshield is show in place. This is only a temporary one to check the shape and fit. After the hatch cover is glassed and primed, I will install the final version with all the fairing and screw details I will also use magnetic strips to hold the cockpit cover hatch closed. I was going to install a spring loaded latch pin assembly but time is running out and the magnets work so well in holding things secure while allowing them to be removed easily.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  12.  
    #87
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    While the fiberglass and resin set up. I made these plugs for some vacuum-formed pushrod exit covers. They'll be formed from 0.020 thick plastic, painted and screwed over the pushrod exits on the fuselage and wing to give the model a finished touch.
    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  13.  
    #88
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    Oops, Here's the photo
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  14.  
    #89
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    The finish on the cockpit hatch cover is the same as the engine cowl and the landing gear so I spent the weekend glassing, priming, puttying and sanding. I started with 220 grit paper and finish with 320 all sanding done dry.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  15.  
    #90
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    while the primer is dried I worked on the cockpit details like the cockpit and the throttle quadrant. Since I don't have the documentation for specific detailing, I went ahead and made details that would be typical for 1920's and 30's aircraft. I made the throttle with thin layers of plywood to make the main body with a slot at the top. I then made the plywood handle and covered it with thin aluminum tape. I also covered the selector switch for the fuel system with aluminum tape to give it a metal finish. The fuel selector is seen at the bottom middle of the instrument panel. Of course the sides of the cockpit will be painted white before I install the other details
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  16.  
    #91
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    Well, since Henry is the Expert in all things "Golden Age Racing" Mr. Haffke, saw that I was fudging the cockpit of the Howard Ike racer, and he sent me some documentation for the instrument panel. So, here's the new panel I just finished today. The old panel won't go to waste, I am sure it will end up in a vintage RC biplane in my future.

    I did not have any 1/3-scale instrument faces (1" diameter) so I went online and typed in: Vintage aircraft instruments...

    I found most of the faces I needed but some are modern ones.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  17.  
    #92
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    Also, Henry's documentation pictures showed that the grond adjustable metal prop was indeed a Hamilton Standard, so I got some great looking decal logos from Cal-Grafx Hobby Art. I simple found a photo online, sent it to the company and they send back these great decals. I got both water slide and printed mylar vinyl. Look great
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  18.  
    #93
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    Now I am working on the windscreen. Here's the pattern being cut out of 0.015 clear plastic.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  19.  
    #94
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    Started the windshield last night. Here you see the painted cockpit hatch cover and the windscreen made of 0.015 clear plastic. I laid out the basic foot print for the windscreen and made a pattern so I could mark the proper position to glue the wingscreen in place with. This makes it straight and centered side to side.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  20.  
    #95
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    I used only two T-pins to anchor the back edges and used tape to hold the lower edge flat against the surface. I then used a T-pin and applied a fairly thick bead of Pacer Formula560 canopy glue to hold the windscreen in place.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  21.  
    #96
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    Here's another shot to see the glue bead. Once the glue has dried overnight, I will start building up the scale attachment fairing (Boot fairing) around the bottom of the windscreen.

    Basically it will be a mixture of 20 minute Epoxy and micro balloons. I will mask off the area where the two surfaces connect and build up the fairing there.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  22.  
    #97
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    I finally got my pushrod exit covers back from Keith Sparks of Parkflyer Plastics. The USPS lost the package and we were ready to make some new ones but they finally delivered them today!

    Keith does excellent work with vacuum-forming and can make anything you supply a pattern with! Here are a few pix of the covers.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  23.  
    #98
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    A little cutting and a little sanding with 400 grit paper and the panelos look like this.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  24.  
    #99
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    Right side of the fuselage has the elevator and rudder pushrod covers. As you can see, they still need to be masked off and painted.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  25.  
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    Left side has only one elevator pushrod but it is a little different that the others as the opening for the pushrod is in the center of the panel. I made these panels because I had to cut fairly large opening to install the pushrods. Henry had made the model with a fuselage former right where the exits needed to be for smooth pushrod movement. I had to make a large 1/2 inch diameter brass cutting tube to cut away the former material from the outside. But as you can see, the end result is worth the effort and it looks pretty scale.

    Of course the covers, pushrod, clevises and control horns will also be painted white to match the rest of the model.
    Attached Images
    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

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