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Thread: Teaming up with "Mr. Gee Bee," Henry Haffke

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  1.  
    #51
    Join Date
    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    got back to the Ike today. I am now sanding and priming my brains out. Started with the nose bowl and added 6 coats of white primer. I hit it with spot putty at the divets and prime again and sand.
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  2.  
    #52
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    07-13-2002
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    The same goes for the engine cowl sides. Prime, sand, spot putty, sand, prime again, repeat until nice and smooth.
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  3.  
    #53
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    while waiting for the spot putty to dry, I started on the static scale prop for the Ike, this is suppose to be a Lycoming ground adjustable aluminum prop when I get done. I started with two broken Zinger 24 inch props and cut them in half. I then filled out the center back section and sanded the inner sends round so the will fit into the center hub section, which I have made out of PVC pipe.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  4.  
    #54
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
    Location
    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    Where does one go to buy two broken 24 inch props?
     

  5.  
    #55
    Join Date
    01-25-2007
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    Lester Alabama, USA
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    476
    Surley you did not break them yourself.

    All kidding aside, I am green with envy that you are getting to do this with Mr. Haffke.

    It looks great.
     

  6.  
    #56
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Hey pipes, yes, Henry and I go way back to I think, the "Time Flies" Model Airplane News construction article. Maybe before that... I can't remember the time frame, but he and I have been more than friends, he is sort of like an adopted Uncle. He is an amazing guy with a rich aviation knowledge and history. He will again be giving his Gee Bee history Seminar at the 2008 WRAM show in February, very much worth the effort to attend!
    GY
    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  7.  
    #57
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Oh yea, and the proken props... I did have one broken prop, the other I barrowed form a friend!! :^)
    GY
    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  8.  
    #58
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Finally am done with all the sanding and priming. I reinstalled all the G-10 fiberglass panels and have started doing the louver detailing.
    Basically I use a No.11 hobby blade and cut into the underlying balsa frame, through the laser cut slits in the panels. Then using the panel slits (I have a seperate template,) I mark and bend the aluminum louver pieces and slip them into place. They will be CA'ed into position after lifting the aft edge slightly. The front edge will be filleted in with glue. so when painted it will look pretty convincing.
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  9.  
    #59
    Join Date
    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Finally I finished the static display prop. The final silver is Master Modeler's buffing Aluminun. All that's left is to paint the back of the blades with flat black.
    to give you an idea of the size of the prop, it has a 27 inch diameter, the sqaures on the table cloth are about 1 inch square
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  10.  
    #60
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    To add the aluminum louvers, I first cut through the laser cut slits in the G-10 panels and then insert the louvers one at a time.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  11.  
    #61
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Once a row is installed and their aft edge is lifted about 3/32 inch, the louvers are glued into place with thin CA. capillary action draws the glue into the the side and front edges.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  12.  
    #62
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    For the areas of the engine cowl that are not covered with G-10 I made a template to cut the louver slits in the correct locations. I taped it in place and then did the same thing as before by cutting the fiberglassed surface of the model with a sharp hobby knife
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  13.  
    #63
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Here's the engine cowl surface after I removed the template.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  14.  
    #64
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Here the louvers have been added to the engine cowl sides
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  15.  
    #65
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Also since the full-size "IKE" had a two sided engine cowl that was joined at the top with a piano hinge, I added a length of music wire coated with plastic. I cut several notches around the plastic coating to make it look like the small barrels. It is glued in place with thin CA. Before the model is painted, I will mask off two stripes about 1/4 inch wide on either side of the wire to make it look like the hinge ears. This will then be painted over.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  16.  
    #66
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Here it is ready for the first coat of Feather Coat primer. This material is a great binding agent as it sticks to anything and then the Poly Tone paint sticks like crazy to the Feather Coat. No sanding is needed to provide some "Tooth" for the paint to stick. It is a chemical bond.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  17.  
    #67
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    To complete the fake piano hinge at the top of the engine cowl, requires small screws and thin strips of aluminum tape. I sharpened a length of wire to use instead of a drill bit to form the tiny screw holes.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  18.  
    #68
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Here the aluminum tape has been applied to each side of the plastic coated hinge wire
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  19.  
    #69
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    With the small Nelson Phillips head screws added, the hinge looks pretty good. Now a few coats of Feather Coat and some paint and the cowl is all done.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  20.  
    #70
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    I started on the wheel pants today so I can paint both the engine cowl and wheel pants at the same time. Here you see how the wooded pants are put together. The halves are screwed together as well as being tack glued.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  21.  
    #71
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    I have been using the Squadron WHITE model putty and think it is really good stuff. It dries quickly and sands well. Here you see the dents and seams all puttyed up. you can see the balsa plug covering up the screw head that joins the pants halves.
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  22.  
    #72
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Here it is all sanded smooth waiting for fiberglassing
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  23.  
    #73
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    07-13-2002
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    New Milford, CT
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    Originally I tried to cover the gear with 21st Century painted fabric and there were just too many seams for the model to look good. I heated it and removed the fabric and decided to cover it with fiberglass and resin instead. With the wheel and tire protected with tape, the first layer of glass was applied in several small sections. Here the resin has been applied and when it dries, the sanding, priming, repeat will get repeated all over again
    Attached Images
    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

  24.  
    #74
    This is truly an amazing build! You are doing an awesome job.
     

  25.  
    #75
    Join Date
    07-13-2002
    Location
    New Milford, CT
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    Using 80 grit sand paper and a P2 Sup-R Sander sanding tool with medium tungsten carbide grit (from Midwest products) I sanded all of the gloss and high spots off of the fiberglassed surfaces. Any bare spots or places where I accidentilly saned through the cloth, I added a patch (sometimes two layers to bring the surface back up. Then I smoothed it into the surrounding area after the resin cured. Zap finishing resin cures overnight
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    Favorite Quote: Passions once set in motion, move themselves... Unknown author.
     

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